This new collection has a split personality. In terms of materials,
there is a leather jacket with big cable knit panels, a ribbed sweater dress, a
wool skirt with a waffle finish, a tailored jacket with a ribbed collar. Shapes
either play tricks – a collared dress and leather basque that mimic the curves
of a suit, a dress with bold cut-outs that appears to be formed of layers of jersey,
a bouclé knit jacket with a faux inner waistcoat – or undergo a radical
transformation when a crossover collar is raised or folded down.
As always with Karl Lagerfeld, the detailing is impressive: buttons are
made from metal locks (the key can be found embroidered on a men's t-shirt), and
pockets are hidden in the inverted pleats of a leather skirt or placed and
buttoned one on top of the other. Shirt fronts are adorned with topstitching,
raw edges or horizontal pleats, zips enclose trousers at the ankle, a ribbon of
solid rivets runs right down a leg, and transparency is used to great effect.
A curvaceous silhouette between shoulders and knees that tapers into a slender
line to the ankles and appears to offer a manifesto for a new kind of femininity.
In love with the colour of this dress!!
A few pieces from the Karlouflage collection
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